Corn Snake Care Sheet


Boopy , Tuesday, 10th of August 2010 10:25:33 PM

Okay guys, due to much help from everyone here on, l have finally began my 
Boopy
quest to setting up an environment for a corn snake! l went to a buncha 
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pet stores today, played with a buncha Amelenistic (spelled wrong xD) corn 
Joined: Wednesday, 26th of May 2010, 11:03:50
snakes, they were all beautiful and friendly.

Here is what l 
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have on my care sheet list...

29 Gallon Aquarium with Locking 
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Screen Top
Aspen Bedding
Spray Bottle
1 or 2 Hides

Thermometers.
1 Hygrometer?
Water Dish
Feeding Tongs/>
BULK Pinkies
Mini-Fridge/Freezer for the pinkies/fuzzies 
etc.. (and some sodas ;) )
Sterilite/Rubbermaid bin for feeding/>
What kind of light/heating equipment should l get? And do these 
tools have certain settings on them for which l can just follow the 
instructions to the heat l need for my guy? UVA/UVB bulb ? Heating mat? l 
do not completely get all that, so any elaboration on that would be 
fantastic!!

Am l missing anything important?! If so please 
tell! l am going to buy all of this in one big bulk shopping spree so the 
sooner, the better!

** IMPORTANT **Can l travel with my snake? 
l intend on buying it in Delaware, where they have more selection of corn 
snakes, and bring him up to New Jersey, where l live...can the car ride be 
harmful to him? Temp changes/stress? Or anything? Thanks guys/girls l 
really appreciate all your help in helping me home a corn snake!!
He 
will be a baby corn snake, so will 29 gallons be too big to start him off 
in? Will he feel insecure or whatever?
 
 
 
 
 

Tinkle Bear , Wednesday, 11th of August 2010 11:26:18 PM

First of all, you need a LOT more hides than 1 or 2. 2 is the  
Tinkle Bear
minimum--one for the warm side, one for the cool side. The bigger the  
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tank, the more hides you need for a baby (I answered ur other question &  
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mentioned this, actually).  
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Anyway, are you sure you can have a corn in NJ? I seem to remember there  
being some law against it. Like, you could only have red-eyed morphs (I  
suppose this is why you were looking at amelanistics--kudos on knowing the  
actual morph name!) or something. Other red-eyed morphs include any other  
morph combos that contain amel--snow(amelXanery), butter(amelXcaramel),  
blizzard(amelXcharcoal--whiter version of snow, charcoal is another form  
of anery), opal(lavenderXamel), fire(bloodredXamel). I am probably missing  
some, though. If you're set on getting one from a pet store, you will  
likely only find amel & snow. You can also find professional, reputable  
corn snake breeders (definitely the better choice).  
 
Heating/Lighting: Corn snakes don't need special lighting. The ambient  
lighting (indirect sunlight, room lighting) of the room it is kept in will  
do fine. If you want to supply lighting, though, you can.  
It is thought that snakes benefit from UVB lighting, but widely accepted  
that they don't need it. Most species (including corn snakes) are either  
crepuscular (out during dawn/dusk) or nocturnal, & they get plenty of  
calcium from their food.  
Heat pads don't have settings, & bulbs/Ceramic heat emitters are adjusted  
by wattage.  
Terrestrial snakes like Corns do best with belly heat to digest, so use a  
heat pad. However, for a heat pad, you need a thermostat--even the ZooMed  
heat pads (which claim to only get 10-15 degrees above room temperature)  
get up to 140*F when left unchecked--and I am serious! I actually recorded  
this on three separate ZooMed heat pads of varying sizes. For the  
thermostat, you can get a really good, high quality one like the Herpstat  
($100+, spyderrobotics.com) or a crappy cheap one that does the job like  
ReptiTemp 500R ($27, petsmart.com--online only item). If you opt for the  
ReptiTemp, you NEED a digital thermometer with a probe to set it.. You  
need a digital thermometer, anyway, actually. Put the probe directly on  
the glass above the heat pad, UNDER the substrate.  
If the room the snake is kept in cold (under 65*F), you might opt for a  
Ceramic Heat Emitter to up the heat. Low wattage, maybe 50 or 75 watts for  
a 29 gallon tank. It doesn't take much to get the air temps above 70*.  
I wouldn't suggest using a heat lamp for heating. They dry out the tank  
REALLY fast, & really thoroughly. One of my girls has chronic  
shedding/constipation problems from an incandescent light I used to  
supplement daytime light over the winter. The humidity is still  
recovering, & I took the thing off over 6 months ago.  
 
Traveling: Depends on the time you will be in the car. 8 hours or more,  
definitely not. I've driven as far as 4-5 hours to take home a hatchling  
corn snake (got two corns & a sand boa at an expo, but the expo was a 4  
hour drive from home). The snakes did great, but I kept them in my lap the  
entire time, which I was only able to do because I wasn't the one driving.  
Take a plastic tub (small food storage tub will do) with some paper towel  
in the bottom to carry him in, in case the store gives you a crappy  
cardboard thing (like Petco. they give you those cardboard rodent boxes  
that a hatchling corn can easily get out of).  
He could potentially get stressed out from the drive, but that is part of  
the reason you should let him acclimate for a week (no food, no handling)  
after he gets home. You have less of a chance of the snake dying for  
whatever reason (i.e. parasites, mites, illness) if you get it from a  
reliable source rather than a pet shop. Stress lowers the reptile is  
immune system, so any health issues it has when you get it (especially  
with such a long drive home) have that much more chance of taking hold. If  
you get from a reputable breeder, the chances are that much less that it  
will be healthy & stay healthy.  
 
Kudos for feeding frozen/thaw! I love it when people know what the RIGHT  
thing is!!! Lol.. For the mice, of course, you will need a freezer. For a  
hatchling, a small (.5-1 qt) tub will work fine. 6 qt Sterilite tubs ($1  
at Big Lots) are PERFECT for adult corn snake feeding tubs. However, the 6  
qts are too big for a hatchling is feeding tub. Would make a good soaking  
tub, though, in case of a bad shed.  
 
Also, do you know of http://CornSnakes.com ? It is a great site for corn  
info, & the members are great. It is a wonderful place to go & skim, to  
make sure you don't miss anything. =)  
 
 
 
 
 

thugaboo babyboo , Thursday, 12th of August 2010 05:47:18 AM

You need a UVA/B bulb, tropical. (exoterra bulbs are good). For  
thugaboo babyboo
a 29 gallon you will probably only need a 13 watt. You can set the lamp on  
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top of the tank touching no plastic.  
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You also need a heat lamp, 50-75 watt, no more than that. Also, those  
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should be tropical (exoterra is tropical bulbs usually come in a green  
package). Touching no plastic, the lamp can sit on top of the tank.  
 
Heating pads are great. Again a small-medium exoterra tropical one is  
good.  
 
You should do a 12 hour rotation ( 12 hours of night, 12 hours day). Don't  
turn the heating pad off, just both the lamps. A hydrometer isn't  
nessesary, just mist him everyday. Aspen bedding is okay, I use cocofresh  
or jungle earth,, which is more realistic.  
 
For the car ride, just bring a pillowcase for him, & knot it. Don't put  
him in direct sunlight, but don't let him get too cold. Don't blast music  
either.  
 
 
 
 
 

Bubbles , Friday, 13th of August 2010 05:54:47 PM

 
Bubbles
http://reptiliaworld.webs.com/apps/forums/topics/show/319288-corn-snake  
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